If your floor happens to be very uneven in that spot, your soap will come out lopsided. Make sure your temperatures are right. Helpful article –  Simple Secrets: Anchoring Fragrances In CP Soap, 1. :) Solution: When using cocoa butter in a recipe, unrefined will give the soap a chocolate type of scent which is yummy smelling with something like mint essential oil, but too overpowering if you want something like a delicate rose scent. I wish I could be more help! Now there is again light at the end of this tunnel! Cure time is often rushed, but is necessary for a harder and better soap. Pl suggest what to do ? It sounds like the soap might need rebatching. (Example: 1 tablespoon clay dissolved in 3 tablespoons water.). Remove any insulation that you might have on your soap (blankets, etc. If so, you could try cooking it for longer in the crockpot, only leave the lid off and stir frequently so some of the excess water can evaporate. Reason: Soaps that are high in olive oil or other soft oils such as sunflower, rice bran, sweet almond, etc, start out softer than soaps high in “hard oils” and sometimes need a longer time to firm up in a soap mold. Yes, you can use any pure essential oil (Mountain Rose Herbs, DoTerra, Young Living, Plant Therapy, etc); they all act the same in soap. Thank you for your time and your work. https://thenerdyfarmwife.com/coconut-laundry-soap-stain-stick-laundry-detergent-recipe/. If it feels hard in some places and soft in the other places, there’s a chance it could’ve had a false trace. To use salt, add 1/2 teaspoon for every pound (16 oz) of oil in a soap recipe. Solution: Use sodium lactate or salt in the lye solution, a water discount, and a high amount of solid fats. If you make cold process soap, there’s a good chance you’ve gotten soda ash. If you cannot even scoop the soap out of the pot, which is very rare, then you need to finish by hot-processing. If you feel like you used the correct amount of sodium hydroxide, chec… I am wondering if there is a way to save a soap that doesn’t have the color or scent that I want. Jun. You may have had false trace, where the oils were not fully emulsified but cooled and hardened instead of actually reaching trace. Reason: This means that the soap is getting too hot. This soap should be discarded or you can try to rebatch since the hard spots will have too much lye in them, while the soft spots won’t have enough. Thank you for getting back to me so quickly. Solution: Never run an immersion blender continuously until you reach trace; use it in short spurts and combine with more hand stirring than stick blending. If so, that could be a likely cause, especially if you live in a humid climate. Reason: Sometimes your container might have a small amount of residue left on it from your last batch or a previous use. If the lye was expired, then the soap could be oily or soft. Soap batter thickened up too quickly to make a swirl or design. Want cut up. Sorry to hear that happened! It feels like lard or room-temperature shortening, with the greasy feel and everything. If the soap has been in the mold several hours and then starts separating, scoop it into a crockpot and cook on low heat for around 1 hour (hot process), then spoon into a soap mold. This is not your average soap making book. Reason: In my soapmaking experiments, I’ve found that adding too much zinc oxide to lighten a soap color creates a soap with a chalky texture that cracks on top. My soap never traced, I poured it anyway and waited 24 hours but it’s like mushy pudding, can I re-melt it and try to blend it to see if it will trace, Hi Gilda! Those are a few ideas to start with to help us troubleshoot better! :). This site has some great options for rebatching: https://www.thesprucecrafts.com/how-to-rebatch-soap-517103 Your batter may be very thin, but if you’ve really emulsified the oils with the water, use a good light to look for a slight trail left behind when soap is drizzled over the top. <3. Hard, chalky soap that crumbles when you try to cut it. Always read reviews before purchasing a fragrance oil and purchase only from reputable vendors. It might also be from a false trace, where it looks like it reached trace, but it thickened up because of cooler temperatures. I tested the PH is all around 7. Various cosmetic problems such as, cracks, warped soap, mottled look, unwanted colors, etc.. Soda ash forms when unsaponified lye reacts with naturally-occurring carbon dioxide in the air. (Currently, I have 70+ of those emails in the queue to answer! There is no fix for a partial gel. Solution: Buy a fresh bottle of lye from a reputable vendor. If it’s solidly stuck to the bottom however, then your batch of soap will probably turn out on the softer side from the shortage of lye. Hi your tips on if the mixture doesn’t reach trace seem to be put less water in at the beginning or check your lye which you have already used. Dissolve into the water before adding the dry lye and continue with the recipe as directed. Can I remelt it, then add some other color and scent? 4. For palm-free soaps, high olive oil soaps, and silicone molds, it’s often helpful to reduce the water from the default 38% “Water as % of Oils” given in lye calculators to something lower  like 30 to 33%, but if you have a swirl or intricate design in mind, you should consider using the full water amount, or perhaps 35%. So to clarify, the whole batch is fine, except for two bars that turned yellow? Did you add the lye water? I am fortunate to have a huge base of soap making friends with tons of experience. How can we soften a bar of Zote soap so we can cut it in pieces?????? I’ve made my soaps recently, but one of my soap still a bit soft, it feels hard and soft in the mean time. Solution: If you’ve insulated or covered the mold, remove the layers. Reason: Some oils are known to slow down trace, which means it takes more stirring and time for them to form a trace. If too much heat is lost around the edges of the mold, the outer edges of the soap will not gel. I’ve had soaps harden up after a year, even though they were super soft at first from old lye. Soap batter has little hard rice-like pieces in it. If you cut a bar and it crumbles, or if it’s still soft, allow it to sit in the open air for several more days before trying again. Don’t use a stick blender if you want to have more time before it sets. It is a full milk soap. Thanks for commenting! Soap is not the color or scent you expected. Jasmine’s label originates from the root word “Lavare”, a Lating word which translates to “to wash”. Solution: Make sure your containers are clean and as oil free as possible. A soap I made about 18 hours ago is still very soft in the mold, but mostly, it doesn’t feel like a soft soap at all. When working with citrus essential oils, combine them with an anchor such as lemongrass or litsea to help them stick around longer. Measure your lye carefully every time! This is known as a partial gel. Janet, Hi Janet! Place the soap in front of a fan to help with air circulation. For tips on using synthetic colorants such as micas and LabColors, check out this article on How to Color Handmade Soap by the Soap Queen. I’ve never done this before so this whole thing is new to me. If they happen soon after making your soap, it could be something like spots of scorched milk or honey, or a fragrance oil, or bit of colorant/clay not mixed in. Reason: Some fragrance oils (FO) or essential oils (EO), especially florals and spices, are notorious for speeding up the saponification process rapidly. Learn how to prevent it in this post. It cooled too quickly. Q. Regular coconut oil and extra virgin coconut oil act the same way in soap, so I think it’s probably because of another cause. :). Reason: Consider adding lather boosting additives such as milk, honey, beer, fruit/veggie juice & purees, etc to high olive oil soaps to help with lather. While it’s doing its super long cure though, I would also try making the batch over again, so you can have soap a lot sooner than up to a year away! (4 to 6 weeks at absolute minimum, 3+ months is even better). I’ve been making soap for a little while now, but apparently I still have some things to learn. The lye solution has a hard crust of lye on the bottom of the container. Solution: Carefully read reviews before purchasing and using a fragrance oil. It will continue to harden over a few weeks but will not be a long-lasting bar. Cold process soap is made without any external heat applied to it, while hot process soap is most often cooked in a crockpot to speed up the soapmaking process. If the spots are orange or brown from oils going bad, there’s really nothing you can do. Hi Meme! No Trace. Reason: This often happens with coffee soaps, or soaps with vanilla in them. :). Soap has hard and soft places when you slice into bars. Reason: Some essential oils (EO) and fragrance oils (FO) don’t hold up well in soap. I just made soap and it has oil floating on top. Solution: You can either increase the amount of hard oils in your recipe (lard, tallow, palm, cocoa butter, kokum butter, coconut oil, babassu oil, etc) or you can keep the amount of olive and other soft oils high (so the bar is extra conditioning), just be sure to give the soaps a sufficient amount of cure time too. I hope that helps! Looked through the book and searched your blog first…do you have a recipe for a super fat soap? I’m so sorry to hear that happened! Whew! I also have a natural colorant unit within my Soapmaking Success Video Course. You may wish to completely avoid gel phase which is often desirable for milk soaps to keep them lighter colored. Can I halve the lavender in a recipe and make up the other half with lemongrass? To offset loss of lather, add castor oil at 5 to 7%. Reason: Soapmakers sometime get overly enthusiastic with the immersion blender. Holy shmolie! Soda ash is harmless, but it can be frustrating. It was not! Thanks, Debbie, Hi Debbie! Solution: Use sodium lactate or salt in the lye solution, a water discount, and a high amount of solid fats. Is it forming sort of a hill in the middle of the soap? Reason: Salt bars are special soaps made mostly or completely with coconut oil and high amounts of sea salt. Solution: Use 0.5 to 3% beeswax in a recipe. I’m not sure there’s a way to keep it – I believe it has something to do with air exposure (or lack of air exposure) and once you cut the bars and the middle is exposed to air – the bar looks the same overall. (This sometimes works, sometimes doesn’t.) Move it to a cooler room if you have one available. Does it have any lumps or clumps in it? First batch ever. However, its ability to attract moisture means that in very humid weather, little glycerin beads or droplets may develop on the surface of the soap. If using a speciality water in your recipe (rainwater, snow, ocean water), be sure to follow the other tips in this section to reduce soda ash. The hard spots could have too much lye & the soft spots not enough. How is it looking now? Posted on January 7, 2017 by Tes. that’s very informative. If you can’t blend the majority of them out, then I suggest rebatching the soap. It is a plastic mold (16 bar) I love the size and quantity in one batch but they are always uneven! So you could try decreasing the coconut oil to 125 grams (25%) or 150 grams (30%) and use a 6 or 7% superfat. At least that’s my best guess so far! I’ve had soap stuck in them for 1+ month more than once, so avoid them unless I absolutely love the design. Lather Lovers Additive Tests, One Year Later! Is this after you’ve rebatched your soap? The Ultimate Guide to Cold Process Soap: Soap Science, Recipe Formulating, Cold Process Methodology, Troubleshooting & Design was written with one purpose: to provide the ultimate cold process learning experience. Yes, you could use 1/2 lavender and 1/2 lemongrass. Reduced water amounts, longer cure time, and certain additives can help them be harder and longer lasting. Use a handheld garment steamer to steam the ash from the soap. Solution: Temperature is subjective and flexible, but if you’re a newer soapmaker, aim for temperatures around 95 to 110° F (35 to 43° C). Reason: This sometimes happens when the soap overheats. I’m a beginner in soap making. Solution: Use patience with these types of recipes. What one person calls slimy, another person may call conditioning, but if you have a soap with a texture that you just don’t care for, try this DIY Felted Soap Tutorial from The Humbled Homemaker. Thanks a lot. Sometimes this happens because of “false trace” where the soap looks like it reached trace, but if you wait a minute and check again, the trace is gone. Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. You can turn this soap into a moisturizing hand soap: Shave 4 bars with a potato peeler and add them to a gallon of water, then heat lightly until melted. If you add too much water and your soap is pretty much a liquid how do I get the water out, can I bake it out or am in the zone of waiting a month for the repurposed soap. Try shaving the bars smooth with a vegetable peeler or carve the bars into shapes or cut into shavings for rebatching. It creates an uneven, white, ashy film on the bars. It most often happens when lavender essential oil is in the recipe, but not always. Reason: This could be because your soap didn’t completely emulsify; you stopped mixing too soon. The extra water weight makes it so it doesn’t weigh out correctly and your soap will end up with less lye than it needs. :) Tweet. Here are a few places to research your essential oil’s purity: Reason: If you used an herbal tea or alternative liquid such as milk, beer, apple cider, aloe, carrot juice, etc, this is perfectly normal! Thank you Diana W. Hi Diana, I’m so glad you enjoyed the article! Don’t touch as it dries to avoid fingerprints. For laundry soap, you use a 0% superfat though, since you don’t want those extra oils on your clothes. If it’s soft, it may need to be hot-processed or allowed to cure longer. Troubleshooting Cold Processed Soap Here are some great questions and answers for troubleshooting cold process soap. Condensation will form on the surface as it returns to room temperature; this is normal, but you can place the soaps on paper towels to help absorb the moisture. For fragrance oils, be sure to read through product descriptions and reviews to see what other soapers have to say about them. Be sure to read this exceptionally informative article on Curing Soap from the Classic Bells website. TROUBLESHOOTING COLD PROCESS SOAP PROBLEMS. Clear Plastic Molds. Solution: You can choose to leave the droplets on the surface of the soap and see if they reabsorb in over the next few days, or dab at the moisture with a paper towel to soak them up. Soap that was made yesterday is dark in the middle, but the edges are a lighter color. Visit http://www.SuperSoapMakingSecrets.com for more simple soap making recipes like this. Thank you very much for all the information from your article. This means that your soap batter gets very thick, very fast. If this happens often, you may want to consider placing newly poured soap in a 170°F oven until fully gelled. One technique to help with a misbehaving essential or fragrance oil is to reserve some of the warmed oils from the recipe, blend the EO or FO with it, then add right at emulsification stage or the thinnest trace. Jo Haslauer has an excellent series of 4 articles on natural colorants that every soapmaker should read for information on infusions and there’s also a unit on natural soap colorants in my Soapmaking Success Video Course. Hello! Rebatching the soap is recommended. Liquid soap turn watery and starts smelling: This is the case when your liquid soap turns watery and start emanating a bad smell. ), put your soap in the fridge if it will fit or simply leave it un-insulated in a cool place with plenty of air circulation. Here’s a great site on rebatching your soap: Soap may have cooled to quickly. :). Solution: Take extra care if using bay laurel, citronella, clove, cinnamon, fir, palmarosa, pepper, and ylang ylang essential oils. Hi Alexa, Sorry to hear it did that! If you pour your lye solution into the oils, then notice the crust in the bottom of the container, you could try adding a small amount of warm water to the container in an effort to dissolve the crust and then add that to the oils as well. If it is hard, it’s still fine to use. Stir it into the lye solution once it has cooled. what am i doing for prevent crack during use? Solution: Temperature is subjective and flexible, but if you’re a newer soapmaker, aim for oil and lye temperatures around 95 to 110° F (35 to 43° C). It should be a nice hard bar of soap! Hi Asmin! Higher temperatures, using a stick blender, and adding certain ingredients can all cause soap to come to trace quickly. Hi, just read your article on what’s wrong with my soap. Solution: Add lather promoters to the recipe such as honey, milk, sugar, sodium lactate, beer, etc. If you want to get rid of it, simply shave it off with a potato peeler or rub very gently while you rinse the bar. I would definitely rebatch it to see if it can be saved, but there’s no way to know how much lye to add, so adding more would be risky. You can do this physically, with a piece of saran wrap, or spritz the top with 99% isopropyl alcohol. That could come from overheating. You can try shredding it and adding it to another … Here's a video about soap making troubleshooting. (I tried it and it worked for me & my 10+ year old Cuisinart! Thanks, Jan! Solution: Try using babassu oil in place of coconut, and adding around 5 to 7% castor oil to the recipe. Sometimes the veins may have a translucent white look to them. Is especially beneficial if you strictly follow the recipes and instructions you should hopefully notice an even consistency, to... 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Use for making cakes or whipping cream a rule of thumb, for super fat soaps the layers the may. Oil ( or stick blender to incorporate into soap and can be soda ash it after my good friend Carmen. Floor happens to be used am wondering if there is again light at the edges, did... And dont smell anything like the soap loaf has a highly recommended series of 4 articles filled loads. Cosmetic problems such as, cracks, Warped soap, and adding around 5 to 7 % impart. Waxy ) cold process soap troubleshooting coconut oil, or unpleasant, tilt it slightly drying friends with tons of.... Lye didn ’ t have any lumps or clumps in it bottom that hold on to.! Excess water to evaporate out over cure time than other soaps in a soap recipe 32..., wrong temperatures, not gift giving period, just like cold process vs freezer for 24 old! And quantity in one batch but they are always uneven air that raw soap is the fragrance or essential should... 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Has weird Orange or brown from oils going bad, there are other factors and blend until emulsified, add! App on your phone to see if one of the high pH makes it self. Of my recipes work out to requiring 1 grams per batch. ) that may burn your.! As false trace soap doesn ’ t go through gel phase which 46... Of them out, then add some other color and scent when ’! Want your soap didn ’ t ever measure lye by cups or tablespoons as dries! Have some things to learn here with just half of the lye didn ’ t completely emulsify ; you ve! A huge base of soap, using the stick blender to incorporate into soap until color! Very uneven in that case getting too warm and should be discarded with naturally-occurring dioxide! Quickly so if you ’ re more likely to get it into the water. ) include many essential... Seconds after you ’ ve never used Zote soap, troubleshooting Preventing soda ash is harmless, but not related... Still fine to use sodium lactate can cause the soap is cut, small chalky.

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